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Cafe Toulouse

Editorial Review

Editorial Review

Since opening in the late 1980s, Cafe Toulouse has had a decidedly up-and-down history. The most recent turn around came in late 2007 when the new owner appointed Alistair Wise as head chef on his return to Hobart. This was his welcome home after a year as head pastry chef at Gordon Ramsay's New York restaurant following two years working for the famously potty-mouthed man in London. It's no surprise then that Toulouse is now serving the very best selection of Danishes, cakes, tarts, friands, barquettes and breakfast croissants in the city. Their quality is such that it's no surprise either that Wise won New York's Bonbon Trolley of the Year Award for Ramsey's restaurant against such high flying chefs as Ducasse, Rubuchon and Keller.

He has taken the sea-change from the New York high end to an inner-city Hobart luncheon cafe in his stride. His autumn menu serves properly preserved and mellowed duck confits, meltingly tender pork bellies, gamey rabbit ragouts and slow-braised lamb necks that would do any Parisian bistro proud. Simple food, perfectly prepared and imaginatively accompanied by the likes of a delicious courgette pickle as a foil to the richness of the duck, a lip-smacking potato aioli or a fabulous buttery potato puree made from slow roasting the spuds in their jackets. Personable prices makes this one of the most enjoyable and best-value eateries in town.

Graeme Phillips, May 2008